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There’s a new guide to retro living in town – the Midcentury Magazine. Published twice a year, it’s all about Mid-Century Modern design. Russell featured in the very first issue with his buyers guide to the Eames RAR (Rocker Armchair Rod) Rocker – so we thought we’d introduce this as a regular feature to the blog. Do pop back for more helpful Mid-Century Modern how-tos…

What can I expect to pay for an Eames Rocker?

Entry level for a good quality non-upholstered chair on a reproduction rocker base is around £450. For this price the chair and base should be in excellent condition. Examples can be found cheaper (£300 upwards) if they are upholstered or have slight damage.

For one of the more rare colour shells (e.g. seafoam green) on a reproduction base expect to pay up to £750. Certain colours were made in larger quantities (e.g. orange) so these tend to be cheaper.

Zenith shells manufactured between 1951 and 1953 which have the Venice label and large shock mounts but no rope edge on a reproduction base can cost up to £1000. For an early rope edged all original RAR, expect to pay upwards of £2000.

If you want the classic RAR with a more reasonable price tag then go for a later example on a reproduction base. This can alter the price dramatically.

Which colours and finishes are available?

In the fibreglass shell – parchment, elephant-hide grey, greige, seafoam green, red, lemon yellow, canary yellow, orange, white, black, dark olive, light olive, brown, raw umber, light ochre, dark ochre, navy blue, light blue, kelly green, turquoise and pink to name a few! There have also been many different coloured naugahyde (vinyl) and fabric examples.

Certain colours are far more sought after such as seafoam green and elephant-hide grey.

Should I seek out particular detailing on the RAR chair?

If you are buying the chair because you are a serious collector and want an investment item then hold out for that perfect chair.

Make sure it has the rope edge, full chequerboard label, original mounts and hardware with original base and runners. The original early wooden runners in birch were slim and rounded, whereas original later runners were thicker and less rounded.

Look for the label. This is far more important if you are buying an early Zenith shell and not so important on later examples which have the raised Herman Miller logo as well as a label.

Which manufacturer labels should I look out for?

The Eames rocker was produced between 1950 and 1953 with Zenith Plastics and was distributed by Herman Miller. After 1953 Herman Miller outsourced the production to various manufactures including Cincinnati Milacron and Summits Plastic in Kalamazoo, Michigan.

To identify Cincinnati Milacron, look for a crescent C with a star. For Summits Plastic, look for a pair of triangles overlapping each other (not the same as the Herman Miller logo), an S or an S with a circle around it. The earlier models may not have any markings at all, but may still have the paper label.

Are there significant differences between manufacturers of the Eames Rocker?

Essentially the chair hardly changed over its lifespan. The first production rocker base was in production for less than a year, making it very rare indeed. Over the years there has been some slight changes made to the wooden rockers, and various fabric and naugahyde upholstered shell options were introduced.

How can I tell whether the shell and legs are original to each other?

You would hope and expect that the seller would not try and sell something as original if certain parts were not. Always ask if there are any non-original parts. Most Eames RARs available to buy now are original shells with a reproduction base.

If the item being sold is described as “all original” then there are certain checks to be made.

Firstly check the shock mounts and look for the indentation in the rubber mounts. Is it consistent with this base? Are there other indentations in to be seen? If so it’s probably a marriage of parts, although both rocker and shell could still be original. Check the bottom of the wooden runners – do they show appropriate wear for their age?

Are there any other potential pitfalls I should look out for when buying an Eames RAR?

Check that the shell and base are firmly attached. Are they still supple? Have they been re-glued? Are the fixing screws original?

Make sure the chair does not have shock mount bleed-through in the seating area. This will be seen as dark areas in the fibreglass over the area where the mounts are attached beneath.

Check for cracks and fractures in the fibreglass. If the shell is damaged in any way it will dramatically reduce the value of the chair.

The more worn the item the less the price, but as always condition is everything. Buy from a reputable source with proven track record of selling quality items.

How concerned about condition should I be?

Very! No matter which type of chair you are buying, make sure the condition is good. Your long-term investment is compromised if you make the wrong purchase. There is nothing wrong with buying cheaper slightly damaged chairs but make sure this is reflected in the price.

When is it worth paying a lot?

Like many iconic pieces of Mid-Century furniture, it’s becoming harder and harder to find excellent examples, so if you come across that perfect piece you may well want to pay up.

If you want a beautiful chair that is also a super investment then go down the all-original Zenith rope edge route. If you want an iconic chair that you use day in day out then go to the other end of the spectrum. There’ll be no difference in quality, just rarity and demand.

Is the Eames RAR a good long-term investment?

Yes. Prices have risen dramatically over the last few years and I expect them to continue rising. Demand is very high for these beautiful chairs which are constantly featured in design and style magazines.

Is it ever worth buying a reproduction Eames Rocker?

No!

So that’s it – a very thorough (and hopefully useful) guide to buying the Eames RAR Rocker. Let us know if you have any other questions, or if you disagree with anything in this guide. What do you think is important when looking to buy an iconic piece of Mid-Century Modern furniture?